Hi Everyone,
Well the month of May zoomed by rather quickly. Mostly because of my action-filled trip back to the U.S. It’s good to be back home in the tropical warmth, even though it’s raining – well, actually pouring! – this Sunday morning. I had forgotten just how changeable the weather back in the Pacific Northwest could be in May. The warmth of the weather the first few days was replaced by clouds and showers – but the warmth continued, generated by good friends and family. As in trips past I couldn’t have been happier with the hospitality of my brothers (Ray and Steve) and their wives (Gayle and Diane) as well as the Almasi’s (Terry and Shary); I get spoiled by their “taking care” of this old traveler.
As I mentioned in my prior emails, I flew a more direct route this trip. Korean Air flies to Inchon (Seoul) from Phuket and then on directly to Seattle. The “dreaded” 9+ hour layover in Inchon was actually a pleasant break in the 18+ hours of flying. I booked a room at the airport hotel for six hours and got a good nap in a nice, quiet room, just steps from the terminal’s concourse. Spent a little time walking around the airport and encountered a parade of Koreans dressed in costumes of previous centuries – a performance of an ancient Korean wedding ceremony – following the parade I found the Korean Cultural Museum (right in the airport) and watched as the marriage ceremony took place. I had planned to sample some typical Korean food – but I had Korean food at home the last two days and so opted for a Korean-style “Whopper” at Burger King. Of course, on the flight from Korea to the U.S. the meal selection included choices of several Korean dishes – I choice to try Bibimbap, several types of vegetables and meat in bottom of a bowl, add portion of hot rice, Korean pepper sauce and soy sauce, mix together and eat; accompanied by a bowl of seaweed soup and pickle chips done in an unfamiliar style. Tasty, but I still prefer Thai bowl meals. To me a big advantage of flying Korean Air, besides the departure from Phuket and the fare which is several hundred dollars less than any other airline, is that the rows of seats in economy are further apart than I have ever seen in another airline (well at least since the 1970’s!), with ample knee room, even when the person in the seat in front of you insists on reclining their seat for the entire journey.
The lady at the Korean check-in counter at Phuket International Airport had added a Priority tag to my luggage (another advantage of Korean Air is that they allow two free checked bags, each can weigh up to 50 pounds!). So arriving at Sea-Tac (Seattle/Tacoma International Airport) my bags were amongst the first appearing on the baggage carousel. Quick trip through U.S. Customs and on the underground train to the main terminal, where, fortunately, the luggage from International flights arrives at the carousel right next to the doors to catch airporter transports. With my two large bags, a heavy carryon and laptop bag, I managed to lug my “load” the dozen meters and book my ride on the Kitsap Airporter. Fortunately, before leaving Phuket, I had purchased two jackets at a nearby second-hand store – a windbreaker and a heavier one. The change from Phuket’s 80+F heat to Seattler’s 50+ this year was then compensated for and I felt snugly warm on the ride to Bremerton, where Ray and Gayle picked me up.
I spent a couple of days at each brother’s home before heading across Puget Sound to appraise a large shell collection in Bellevue which was to be donated to the Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture in Seattle. It is an amazing collection and the Burke is fortunate to be the recipient. The Field Museum, the American Museum of Natural History, the British Museum and the Muséum national d’histoire naturelle in Paris all wanted the collection, but with the donor being local and the persuasion of Dr. Alan Kohn, the Burke won out – as the donor said, he can easily visit the collection in nearby Seattle. The work of the appraisal went well, as the collector had reams of lists covering the 25,000+ species, subspecies and forms in the collection. And access to all was simple with separate cabinets holding all of the family of related shells. I am certain the I.R.S. will accept my “fair market value” appraisal.
After two days of work, I decided that that second evening I would just dine at the hotel’s restaurant. I neglected to realize something – “American Long Term Hotel” chain rooms each have cooking facilities – so when I inquired about the hotel’s restaurant I learned there was none. The nearest restaurant was a Denny’s about two blocks away or I could continue another two blocks, use the overpass above the freeway and then an additional two blocks would take me to famous-for-great-restaurants Bellevue Square. A glance at the rain steadily falling outside the hotel entrance and put the kibosh on that long trek. Instead I decided to recall several Teen-age Vending Machine meals and partook of a cinnamon role, chocolate-chip cookies, some Ritz crackers and a Diet Coke. Please don’t tell my Doctor!
Sunday the 19th was the May meeting of the Pacific Northwest Shell Club, so after completing the appraisal I stayed several nights with the Almasi’s, remembering past shelling trips with them and with our mutual, departed good friend, Trevor Roberts. The club meeting was enjoyable and well attended, with an illustrated talk on the Sea Mammals of Puget Sound to expand our knowledge beyond the mollusks we all sought.
Back across the Sound to brother Steve, who has the family home, just a mile from Port Gamble. A few days were spent visiting older family relatives as well as walking in to Port Gamble and doing a bit of work on a few of the displays that needed a new label or a bit of cleaning. I must say that Shanna Smith, manager, and the crew that maintains Port Gamble for Olympic Resource Management, as well as Kim and Eric who now have the General Store, have done a great job with my museum and I hope they know how appreciative I am for their efforts.
We were to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of my Of Sea and Shore Museum of Shells and Natural History on Sunday the 26th. Unfortunately, the person charged with doing PR for the event “dropped the ball” and there were no announcements of the event in any newspaper. The town’s website and the General Store website did put a mention on their sites. I was filled with apprehension that no one would come to “the big day”. Fortunately George Holm, editor of “The Dredgings” the newsletter of the Pacific Northwest Shell Club ran an article of the event (as did Tom Eichhorst, editor of “American Conchologist”, the Conchologists of America magazine that goes to thousands of collectors). Mention was also made at the Club meeting and Club President Ray Bily placed a robot-call to all club members the week before that Sunday. The “live wire” in my North Kitsap Class of 1957 – Bonnie Myrvik Greenfield sent several emails to class members and made phone calls to others about the anniversary.
So as Sunday arrived I wondered if we’d have more “docents” [shell club members who volunteered to answer visitor questions and guide visitors] than visitors. Not to worry. It was probably a good thing that no publicity was done as during the six hours of the event (with great coffee and a gorgeous cake provided by the General Store) we were constantly full of members of my extended family, shell club members and classmates of my highschool class. We also had several local people who had first visited the museum as children and were now bringing grandchildren to see the displays. Plus a number of people who had stopped by to tour our Victorian-age village and have a delicious meal at the Café in the General Store – which by the way, will be expanding into the space formerly occupied by the Pope and Talbot Company offices. At the end we all wondered what we’d have done had a few hundred more shown up due to a publicity blitz.
Immediately following the closing of the General Store, my good friend Brian Gregory and I drove out to the northwest part of Washington State – Cape Flattery and the Makah Indian Reservation at Neah Bay. This area is full of shelling and other memories for me and it was great to be back there after a lapse in visits of more than 15 years. Starting in 1956 I had visited this area several times a year and always came back with “molluscan treasures”. At this time the Tribe has banned any taking of live specimens (plants or animal) on the Reservation. Beachcombing is still allowed – so the next morning found Brian and I trying to remember the road from Neah Bay (located on The Strait of Juan de Fuca) to Mukkaw (Makah) Bay which is on the Pacific Ocean side of Cape Flattery. Not much had changed in the intervening years and we were soon parked and heading for the beach – needless to say warmly bundled and in rain suits and boots, as the wind was blowing quite hard and the gray skies were sending down a continuous fall of rain. Of course we were the only “fools” {aka “hearty souls”} on the beach and we did find a few nice shells as we walked the mile long sand beach. Memories flooded my mind as the rain fell and the wind blew – back to my initial visit when Bernie Hamlin and I, looking for specimens for our Biology Class project, drove to Makah Bay back in March 1956 in my 1942 Chrysler Salesman’s Coupe (it had an extremely large trunk and we used that rather than a tent for sleeping. We arrived at the Bay after dark – and it was snowing lightly – and went to the end of the road, stopped and spent the night under a grove of cedars. I was to learn, several years later, that we had actually spent the night in the Makah tribe’s traditional cemetery – something that was completely forbidden! Fortunately no tribal member (or ghosts) saw us there that night and dawn saw us out on the rocky reef looking for specimens. This is just one of dozens of memories associated with Neah Bay and Makah Bay – perhaps they’ll all be included if I ever get the “drive” to finish memoirs that have been barely started.
Besides the dead shells from the drift, I brought back some of the famous Makah Smoked King Salmon (just had a bit before I started this email – as a Thai would say “allow mak” [very delicious] and I have a portion to give to my “Thai Family,” the Patamakanthins later today).
After driving back to Steve’s I started to pack for the trip home. My two checked bags, on the trip from Thailand to Seattle weighed in at a total of 50 pounds (as stated before the allowable weight PER BAG), so I was a bit “wild” in buying things unavailable in Thailand (fewer and fewer as the years go by) and when I had stuffed everything into the bags each weighed 48.5 pounds. A sigh of relief.
With only a two hour layover in Inchon on the return trip, it was a “quick” trip back to my home on the shore of the Strait of Malacca, Andaman Sea, Indian Ocean. Now to catch up on mail and plan to help my Thai nephew with his next project – a shell museum in a university in northern Thailand. Tom